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Day 9 - Genk

Everything has its limit - iron ore cannot be educated into gold. - Mark Twain 

This adventure with Mark Twain at my side is one of relearning wisdom lost or forgotten. For this tour I have only slightly increased my average daily mileage; I know my limit from previous tours and hope I remember to decrease the mileage when I again load up the tent and hut hillier landscapes. 


I was smuggled across the border by boat via a quiet river crossing yesterday but now I re-enter Belgium on an exposed bridge.

Immediately back in Belgium and Flanders asserts itself. 

I have picked up the Kempen route (KEMPENROUTE) named after the Kempen lakes - I think - and will soon go through the Hoge Kempen National Park to get to Genk. The KEMPENROUTE goes up to Antwerp and I expect to follow that.

Maasmechelen.

Hoge Kempen National Park and a good representation of the cycling today.
Genk is my 55km day and I use the time to visit one of the town's bike shops to buy two spare inner tubes and a set of spare skewers as I am feeling nervous after my skewer breakage and multiple punctures. If I have been over tightening the rear skewer leading it to shear then the front may have the same weakness and the replacement rear is an unknown second hand replacement, albeit very gratefully received. You don't usually take spare skewers for a three-week tour as they are not prone to breakage but it would not make for a good ending if I had problems given the earlier warning. 

Genk is primarily known for the mining heritage that is still visible. My hotel tonight is close to the restored C-Mine in Winterslag; not shown below. Genk is a working town meaning the town isn't beautiful. Mining brought in workers from overseas and has a Turkish Mosque you can visit.
The visit to the bike shop reminds me that the Belgian people have embraced the e-bike and embrace new cycling technologies. The humble shopper bike with the classic step-through frame will feature up to date features and people are buying new bikes rather than keeping their old bikes going. In the UK we seem to need every bike on the spectrum from shopper to racer with many variants of hybrid in between and this confusion and profusion of offerings often leads people to buy the wrong bike. In Belgium the utility flat bar shopper does everything until you want to go out with your club on a Sunday when you bring out the drop bar carbon fibre race bike. Some of this is down to the terrain in Belgium, no mountains means no mountain bikes, and the cycle infrastructure means a quality shopper can take you further. The bike shop was excellent, they tried to find a base layer for me but didn't push anything on me and they offered coffee, a sure fire way to make you linger and browse. 

Genk is large enough to have bakeries, these tea shops offer sandwiches to patisserie, hot drinks and a welcoming place when you require some sit down warmth and comfort. With no sun the forecast 20 degrees feels strangely cool. 

I take a brief tour of the local mine to see how the town has maintained and developed. 
My hotel for the night restores my faith in the service sector. Someone is on reception and without prompting they inform me where my bike can go, ask if I want to take breakfast and tell me the breakfast times and protocol; my room number will be on a table. They also pay homage to the town's mining heritage. 

Genk is actually a place I wish I had time to explore. As a compromise I intend to cycle through a pond tomorrow and I'm excited to see how that works out.

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Index

A daily index is provided with some introductory notes. Introduction   Day 1 - Zonnebeke   Day 2 - Wervik Day 3 - Avelgem Day 4 - Geraardsbergen Day 5 - Sint-Genesius-Rode Day 6 - Jodoigne Day 7 - Borgloon Day 8 - Elsloo   Day 9 - Genk Day 10 - Lommel Day 11 - Kasterlee Day 12 - Antwerp   Day 13 - Ghent Day 14 - Bruges Day 15 - Dunkirk   Nodemapp.com

Introduction

Bergs and cobbles might be what spring to mind when you think about Flanders and that was certainly the inspiration for this tour despite the fact that I can't manage sharp hills and I dislike cobbles. Just so we all know where we are, Flanders is the Flemish/Dutch-speaking region of Northern Belgium in contrast to Wallonia, the French-speaking region of Southern Belgium; a third smaller region is Brussels and its surroundings. You may be wondering who speaks Flemish and its a fair question as the word Flemish can be used to refer to the Dutch spoken in Flanders or any number of non-standard geographical variants. Oh, then there is the small region in the South East where German is the primary language.  Bergs are the notorious short sharp hills that with the notorious cobbles define bike racing in Flanders. Names like Koppenberg, Patenberg and Muur van Geraardsbergen will be familiar to those who follow cycle racing. In France the climbs can be long with manageable gradients from ...

Day 11 - Kasterlee

The right word may be effective, but no word was ever as effective as a rightly timed pause. - Mark Twain  A rightly timed pause for this tour would have been Leuven, that relaxed city I passed through earlier.  However, tomorrow I reach Antwerp and get the first of my three pauses, the other two being days off in Ghent and Bruges. Today is also a pause as there is only 40km involved and the terrain is easy and flat. The day starts with a ride along the Kanaal Dessel-Schoten . I linger over the view and just as I start to leave the bridge goes up.  Passing through Dessel the main attraction is the water pump, now a monument.  My destination today, Kasterlee, is reached easily after 40km. A true rest day which ends with a restored windmill. Index