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Day 4 - Geraardsbergen

Part of the secret of a success in life is to eat what you like and let the food fight it out inside. - Mark Twain 

Travelling light on a bike means eating what is available and vaguely sensible. Breakfasts - where they are offered - are continental meaning bread, hams, cheeses, pastries but also fruit and yoghurt. That's the variety meal that sets me up for the day and I take my time over it. Then it is supermarket offerings of more bread and ham, bananas, snickers bars and mixed nuts; whatever I can carry and eat as a picnic. Whatever food I have eaten is then forced to 'fight it out inside'.

And on a cool sunny morning I am forced to fight it out in the footsteps of Eddy Merckz and the first real berg, the Kluisberg - Mont de L'Enlus. I need to practice climbing because when I get out of the saddle on damp roads the rear wheel spins due to me getting too far over the handle bars. 
An excuse to catch my breath. This photo is of the gradual descent through lush woodland. 
Belgium cycle infrastructure at its best.
I follow the EuroVelo 5 very briefly. 
Belgium celebrates cyclists and here they celebrate with a sequence of Tour of Flanders winner's names painted on the road including Tom Simpson from 1961.
I knew the end of today was a berg but hadn't appreciated that the whole day has a number of short sharp climbs. The bottom of each climb is marked out and luckily 530m is the distance travelled rather than the ascent. The Taaienberg felt more like a constant 10% though being cobbles it is hard to maintain the smooth pedalling action you can achieve on tarmac. You definitely need to apply some technique that you don't get to practice in the UK.
The "De Ronde" is The Tour of Flanders.
I am desperate for a coffee as the day draws on but everything is closed including this place which being true to its name operates a 'only after you have cycled' policy. 
Entering Geraardsbergen I pass my accommodation on the way to the final climb of the day. The cobbles are wet and slippy and I quickly realise that my legs have done enough today so 'the wall' as it is called can wait until tomorrow. Yes, Muur means wall.

It has been a 40-mile day with some sharp ascents and luckily the steepest was the first climb. This is actually quite a normal day for me when touring but Belgium likes to celebrate the hills it has and for good reason as they are quite special. 
I walk the first part of tomorrow's ride up the Muur as part of a stroll around town. Not that I'm worried about the climb, I just fancy a walk to stretch my legs. If I happen to make mental notes on gradients, road condition and any hazards such as wet leaves well, that's only natural. I've eaten too much bread recently, I can't face chips with anything meaty but eventually stumble on a place that does mussels. 

The final word today must go to the rich verdant landscape of the Flemish Ardennes. The only problem is that driving would be a pain and it's not really walking country in my opinion so pump up those tyres and get rolling. 

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Index

A daily index is provided with some introductory notes. Introduction   Day 1 - Zonnebeke   Day 2 - Wervik Day 3 - Avelgem Day 4 - Geraardsbergen Day 5 - Sint-Genesius-Rode Day 6 - Jodoigne Day 7 - Borgloon Day 8 - Elsloo   Day 9 - Genk Day 10 - Lommel Day 11 - Kasterlee Day 12 - Antwerp   Day 13 - Ghent Day 14 - Bruges Day 15 - Dunkirk   Nodemapp.com

Introduction

Bergs and cobbles might be what spring to mind when you think about Flanders and that was certainly the inspiration for this tour despite the fact that I can't manage sharp hills and I dislike cobbles. Just so we all know where we are, Flanders is the Flemish/Dutch-speaking region of Northern Belgium in contrast to Wallonia, the French-speaking region of Southern Belgium; a third smaller region is Brussels and its surroundings. You may be wondering who speaks Flemish and its a fair question as the word Flemish can be used to refer to the Dutch spoken in Flanders or any number of non-standard geographical variants. Oh, then there is the small region in the South East where German is the primary language.  Bergs are the notorious short sharp hills that with the notorious cobbles define bike racing in Flanders. Names like Koppenberg, Patenberg and Muur van Geraardsbergen will be familiar to those who follow cycle racing. In France the climbs can be long with manageable gradients from ...

Day 11 - Kasterlee

The right word may be effective, but no word was ever as effective as a rightly timed pause. - Mark Twain  A rightly timed pause for this tour would have been Leuven, that relaxed city I passed through earlier.  However, tomorrow I reach Antwerp and get the first of my three pauses, the other two being days off in Ghent and Bruges. Today is also a pause as there is only 40km involved and the terrain is easy and flat. The day starts with a ride along the Kanaal Dessel-Schoten . I linger over the view and just as I start to leave the bridge goes up.  Passing through Dessel the main attraction is the water pump, now a monument.  My destination today, Kasterlee, is reached easily after 40km. A true rest day which ends with a restored windmill. Index