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Day 14 - Bruges

Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. - Mark Twain 

Today is Bruges, a common tourist travel destination and if anything a little too touristy when Leuven, Antwerp and Ghent have much to offer. I enjoyed Mr Twain's specific points on how travel broadens the mind.

Leaving Ghent I couldn't resist a typical street view not far from the centre before moving on to the standard tourist photos.  
Unusually for my tour in Belgium there is a castle though Belgium is dense in castles manor houses and the like. In the UK we think of the Norman invasion and the church, cathedral and castle building that went after that and we see the vestigaes of that to this day; Norwich cathedral from my last cycle tour was a good example of the Normans stamping their mark. They were saying "we are here to stay", and they did stay, though England switched back to an English monarch in the mid-12th century. Wales has over 400 castles, some built by the Welsh prince's for defence, others by Edward I when he subdued those princes. The Welsh people still have mixed feelings about those symbols of oppression.
The lighting is wrong but this is Saint Nicholas slaying a dragon; this is a tale that comes from the Eastern Orthodox tradition,  an early branch of Christianity. It is a tale as old as time itself. Dragon terrorises a town, the town calls for a hero, the hero slays the dragon and everyone is happy apart from the dragon who is momentarily displeased.
I am still struggling to understand Belgium at any level but I appreciate I would need to delve back before 4 October 1830 when a provisional government declared independence of the Southern Netherlands (Belgium) from the (Northern) Netherlands. 
Today is around 50 miles and leaving Ghent I start by hitting the school run which means plenty of bike traffic. I pedal fairly continuously for the first 40 of those 50 miles stopping for a quick coffee and the usual pauses to check directions.

The route could have followed the Kanaal Gent-Brugge all the way but it deviates through forests and farmland to make for an interesting ride including a few cobbles.
I get a brief view of what I am missing by cycling. 
It is 1pm and I omitted to bring food so I need to find a supermarket. 

The route approaches Bruges from the south then avoids Bruges by pushing up north to the picturesque town of Damme.
One more push and I'll be in Bruges though having driven north I now plunge to the southern tip of Bruges to complete a 54-mile day in relaxed manner given the flat landscape and yesterday's rest day.

Entering Bruges I suddenly recognise one of the three windmills down by the ring road that circles Bruge old town. It feels faintly comforting to be in vaguely familiar territory however brief my previous trip to Bruges was.

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Index

A daily index is provided with some introductory notes. Introduction   Day 1 - Zonnebeke   Day 2 - Wervik Day 3 - Avelgem Day 4 - Geraardsbergen Day 5 - Sint-Genesius-Rode Day 6 - Jodoigne Day 7 - Borgloon Day 8 - Elsloo   Day 9 - Genk Day 10 - Lommel Day 11 - Kasterlee Day 12 - Antwerp   Day 13 - Ghent Day 14 - Bruges Day 15 - Dunkirk   Nodemapp.com

Introduction

Bergs and cobbles might be what spring to mind when you think about Flanders and that was certainly the inspiration for this tour despite the fact that I can't manage sharp hills and I dislike cobbles. Just so we all know where we are, Flanders is the Flemish/Dutch-speaking region of Northern Belgium in contrast to Wallonia, the French-speaking region of Southern Belgium; a third smaller region is Brussels and its surroundings. You may be wondering who speaks Flemish and its a fair question as the word Flemish can be used to refer to the Dutch spoken in Flanders or any number of non-standard geographical variants. Oh, then there is the small region in the South East where German is the primary language.  Bergs are the notorious short sharp hills that with the notorious cobbles define bike racing in Flanders. Names like Koppenberg, Patenberg and Muur van Geraardsbergen will be familiar to those who follow cycle racing. In France the climbs can be long with manageable gradients from ...

Day 11 - Kasterlee

The right word may be effective, but no word was ever as effective as a rightly timed pause. - Mark Twain  A rightly timed pause for this tour would have been Leuven, that relaxed city I passed through earlier.  However, tomorrow I reach Antwerp and get the first of my three pauses, the other two being days off in Ghent and Bruges. Today is also a pause as there is only 40km involved and the terrain is easy and flat. The day starts with a ride along the Kanaal Dessel-Schoten . I linger over the view and just as I start to leave the bridge goes up.  Passing through Dessel the main attraction is the water pump, now a monument.  My destination today, Kasterlee, is reached easily after 40km. A true rest day which ends with a restored windmill. Index